| Car's "Home"
Car's "home" for 3 days...
Most of the time the car is cleaned,
aqua-sandblasted, painted, treated, and dried it
is up on a car lift.
These Behind-the-Scenes photos were taken during the treatment of a
'typical' car: a nice-looking and well-kept six year old Mazda 626 from
Uppsala, treated by Rostskyddsspecialisten.
|Photo # 1: Removing Parts...
Photo # 2: A few fasteners!
Photo # 3: Dirt & salt behind mudflap!
Photo #1: Wheels,
fender guards, plastic parts, access covers, old factory tape, etc.
are removed to clean and protect the car.
Photo #2: About 50 to 80 screws, bolts, covers, and plugs are removed from a typical car!
Photo #3: Close up of the dirt, salt, leaves, etc. that collect behind a typical mud flap, and rust the car! Removal of parts is critical to protecting areas that are usually out of sight and out of mind to most car owners.
Many rust protection companies
do not remove parts, or remove very few parts. Customers should
insist all companies take this step, and then clean and treat
all areas such as these!
Car parts removed
Wheels, bolts, protective plastics, detail items, plugs are removed and the car is cleaned
Note: The car has been washed and sandblasted on all silver / gray surfaces including bumpers, spring seats, wheel arches, side-bearers, which were rusty because the automaker has failed with rust protection. .
|The rainman cometh...
Even with bright sunshine outside, the Rostskyddsspecialisten needs
full rain gear when cleaning an auto!
Dirt, grime, rocks, etc. are blasted away
in a high-pressure cloud of water and vapor, in preparation for rust
Dirt... sticks... rocks... road
salt... moisture... mud... all take up residence throughout your car's
frame, and help accelerate rusting and pitting... often in areas most
car owners never see or suspect. Under no circumstances should
should rust protection be applied without a thorough cleaning
and complete drying.
Note 2: It is a
sad reality that some companies simply spray black goo over everything,
with no regard to proper cleaning, drying, and rust removal. Many
car owners spend thousands, and are never aware their car is in worse
shape than ever, since everything is now securely attached
to their rusting car with a layer of black "protectant". Ironically,
even a car wash will not be able to remove
the things that are now trapped and savagely digesting their car's metal!
Sand ends up here:
The Sand Job!
many as eight bags of brand new blasting sand can be needed to properly
remove the rust with sandblasting! This Mazda required
five bags (125 kg) of sand.
Rust that is destroying your car ends up here... on the floor, too! The floor is covered
with about one bag's worth of sand from 30 minutes of sandblasting.
Photo # 1:
Photo # 2:
Photo # 3:
Photo # 4:
Photo # 1: This 6 year old
Mazda 626 is "typical" for a sedan... lots of rust and corrosion.
All silverish metal (near the end of the high-pressure blaster
in this photo) has been stripped of orange-brown rust and corrosion,
leaving shiny (but rust-pitted) metal underneath.
Photo # 2: Nowhere to hide... sand under high pressure from a powerful
machine removes rust and corrosion from places even wire brushes cannot
Photo # 3: The brown streaks under the Rostskyddsspecialisten's
mighty blaster are flakes of rust leaving the car at 50 to 100 kph!
Photo # 4: Always remove the rust! More vertical brown streaks indicate the Rostskyddsspecialisten
has rooted out yet another pocket of cancerous rust.
Rust should always
be removed from metal, before priming paint and Rust Protection is applied.
Unfortunately, some companies actually refuse to clean
and remove rust, which is one reason they cannot offer a real 10-year
warranty on every car, such as our Warranty
|Drying process photo # 5:
Drying process photo # 6:
The Drying Process
After each step!
After each major step, a complete drying must occur to produce the best
quality and longest lasting treatment. With nature's slow drying,
this could take several days after each step; it could thus take weeks
to do a proper rust protection job. However, the Rostskyddsspecialisten
has large heated air machines to do a thorough drying in only 10 to 24
hours after each major step.
In fact, some companies simply don't bother to clean (much less
machine dry!!) a car they will "attempt" to protect.
Why? Well, you probably guessed it... the drying machines are
expensive, and it is time-consuming to do the job properly.
Photo # 5: The heated air system is built in to
the floor, and provides evenly distributed warm air under the entire
car. The large black hoses (in the foreground) from the heated
air machine are connected to the car frame and interior frame, and warm
dry air is forced though the frame after cleaning, after sandblasting,
priming/painting, and every layer of protectant application (we apply three
Photo # 6: Industrial fans with massive motor
and blades reach larger underbody sections with relentless blasts of
air for hours, after each step.