Rostskydd - rust protection rust proofing car: Tectyl Tuff-Kote Dinol in Uppsala Stockholm
Welcome to the Rust Protection Specialist, master of Rust Protection!
Welcome to the Rust Protection Specialist, master of Rust Protection!
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Welcome to Rostskyddspecialisten, Mästare på rostskydd, master of rust protection!

Rust Protection

How We Protect Your Car

Step by step... with photos of a 6-year old Mazda 626!

  Remove Parts

  Parts Removed

Step One

Remove parts

Wheels, fender guards, plastic parts, etc. are removed to clean the dirt and remove the rust. Note the smooth gray areas in the wheel well versus the "bumpy" surface just above and behind the disc brake (the brown disk). The incomplete factory treated (bumpy) surface covers only about one fourth of the wheel well, and the smooth areas have never been protected. Only about 30% of a typical car has even the slightest factory rust protection; some causes of this factory failing are the automated robot application system and "economy" of sparse treatment.

Note: In the bottom photo, the car has already been cleaned, and the rust removed to show the extent of factory rust protection. All silver/gray areas, including the shock absorber and frame, were rusty because of the incomplete factory rust protection!

High-pressure cleaning

Step Two


Dirt, road salt, sand, mud, etc. are blasted away with hot water from a high pressure cleaning machine (at times even with 120°C steam!) in a cloud of vapor.
This thorough cleaning is done in places the owner cannot see, and normally never considers (clumps of mud behind plastic protective coverings, e.g. in the wheel well).

Note: A car should always be thoroughly cleaned, and rust removed (see Step 3!), then rapidly dried before priming & rust treatment (Steps 4 & 5).


Half completed


Diamond drill

Step Three

Rust Removal!

Method 1: High pressure sandblasting

Before sandblasting (top photo)
: The top photo was taken just after cleaning the dirt and grime, before sandblasting. Note the extensive rust... this is only a six year old Mazda 626!

Halfway through sandblasting: The top part is stripped of the deep rust, and the rust pits can be seen. Rust pits are places where metal has been lost to corrosion, and weakens the remaining metal structure. In some cases, especially with thinner metals like brake covers and underbody attachments, the metal can become paper-thin or even be completely destroyed.

After sandblasting: Note that the metal is clean and ready for bonding & the dangerous rust is removed!

Note 1:
It can take more than a day, and six or seven sacks of brand new, special blasting sand to remove rust from an average car like this one.

Note 2:
Even though the metal is now cleaned and will soon be protected from further rust with special paint and protectant, the pitting and deterioration that has occurred thus far is permanent.

Method 2: Mechanical Removal

Diamond drill:
Mechanical methods (such as diamond drills, steel wire brushes, and high speed pneumatic tools) are also used to remove rust, particularly in areas near visible car finish, or deep corrosion.

Rust should be removed from metal, before priming paint and Rust Protection is applied. This step is not necessary if the car is rust free; rust removal is a separate cost. However, many companies actually refuse to ever clean and remove rust, which is one reason they cannot offer a long-term, ironclad warranty, such as our 10-year Guaranty.


Left rear suspension (looking back)

Step Four

Apply Yellow & Brown Primer Paint

After the car is cleaned, the rust is removed, and the car thoroughly dried, special 3-part primer and paint is applied to seal, bond, and protect metals.

Note: Primer is not necessary if the car is in new, rust-free condition.

Thin Protectant

Underbody first layer of rust protection

Step Five

Apply penetrating protection

As an independent company, we can choose any rust protectant in the world... we have tested and compared all protectants available in Sweden. Simply put, we choose to offer premium products because your auto investment is worth it!

Rust must be prevented inside doors and inside the car's steel frame. Penetrating (thin) protectant is used inside the frame, hood, trunk, doors, and on all underbody surfaces. Access holes are used (and no, we don't drill holes in your car, like some companies do), with a special 2 meter applicator to reach these places which are sometimes overlooked others (see News).

Thick Protectant

Step Six

Apply outer protection

This is the front-line protection to save your car from the punishing road conditions that constantly attack your vehicle. Quality protectant is one of the reasons we can offer our 10-year Warranty on all cars we fully treat.

After the first layer of penetrating (thin) protectant, three more layers of heavy (thick) protectant are applied from 3 different directions... this eliminates the areas missed by spray "shadows" which often plague other companies.  Our 4 layers are another reason we can offer the best warranty, bar none!  Many customers report a noticeable reduction in road noise, too.

rostskyddsbehandling  Nils Angerstig                             map & directions
Smedsbo 755 92 Uppsala  •  Tel. 018-36 20 20  •  Mob. 0705-36 20 20       

Tectyl (inte tuff-kote, dinol, tuffkote, tuff kote, auson, merkasol, noxudol)

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Vi rostskydd, rost skydd, underredsbehandling, rostskyddsbehandling, rostbehandling, tectyl, underedsbehandling. Inte tuff-kote dinol, tuffkote, tuff-kote, tuffkote dinol, dinitrol, dinol, tuff kote, auson, merkasol, noxudol. Vi tectyl rostskydd i rostskydd, bilrostskydd, rostskydd bilskydd, underredsbehandling, Rostskyddsspecialisten. Bilvård, Bilvårdshuset, bil rost, bilrost, vatten, sandblästring, tectylbehandling, korrosioninstitutet. - rostskydd, underredsbehandling: Rostskyddsspecialisten bil Tectyl bästa! Vi skyddar din bil från rost! Uppsala, Stockholm!